Fitting a Cone Filter to an ST150

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Fitting a Cone Filter to an ST150

Postby Stu » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:01 am

The milo bottle top might be too soft use a coke one and place the flat end of the top flush against the hole its will fit tight - when removing it (noise filter) dont losen the clip for it and just wiggle it out the bottle top will fit snug then - the water catcher bottle doesnt need to be sealed off but I would with some tape.On all of ours I got a piece of plastic tubing made that fits into the filter and flush into the twisty piece then I used tape over that to give it a bit of play cause the motor does move when you drive and I didnt want to run the risk of the thottle body pulling off from the twisty thing even with cable ties so I would recommend doing that
Last edited by Stu on Tue Jul 18, 2006 1:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby rei » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:21 am

ok, I think this might be easier..

I loosen the pipe at no. 1 and no. 4 and wiggle it out of no. 5. Turn the pipe around and fit no. 1s end where no. 4 was. I then close no. 1s hole with duck tape. Slide a coke cap with the closed end first into the pipe at no. 5 and hook up the filter to the no.4 end of the pipe

What do i do with the no. 2 black box thingi?
Do I have to do something with the no. 3 pipe?
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filter install
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Postby Stu » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:49 am

1 is to remove your ram air your number 3.
2.is to pull the number 3 pipe from the back out and then to pull it up out of the water bottle catcher.
3. is to take the noise thing off your number 5 dont loosen the clamp on that one.
4.pull your number 1 off the filter box.
5 pull the pipe off the throttle body your number 4.
6.Seal off the open holes.
7.Turn the twisty bit so that the part that was on the throttle body now sits on the filter.
8.Plug the noise filter hole with a coke bottle top.
9. Put twisty thing with filter attached on the throttle body and tighten everything - its simple if you do it in these steps - mine took about 1hour to do before I figured out which pipes to pull first then Deens and Devens took less than 5 min to install
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Postby rei » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:52 am

very niiiiiche...thanks Stu...I'm ready to install my filter...as soon as the dyno results comes back.thanks a million!!

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Postby Stu » Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:58 am

Dont need to worry about the coke top getting sucked it there is a tiny ridge in the twisty thing that will act like a seal that the bottle top sits flat against so thats cool.You are also going to need to get a piece of plastic tubing about 8cm long to fit into the twisty bit and into the filter - 8cm should be long enough to make the filter sit tight next to the twisty thing with the tubing in the inside holding them to geather then just tape it up :lol: let me know if you get stuck but its pretty simple
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Postby rei » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:23 am

will do...I'll cut myself a piece of tube and fit it around the twisty thing..thanks stu..

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Postby Paddy » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:04 am

hi all i was thinking when i read this post about it potentially causing problems and needing to be dyno tuned for a addition of the cone and more air...surely modern day ecu's are able to adjust to the greater air flow because they are so hi tech :?: and therefore no need to dyno it cos the ecu will notice the greater air flow and adjust its self?

ive also heard from people in the uk that they reset there ecu's and put it into "learning mode" after installing minor mods such as a cone filter.Basically they just disconnect the battery for a couple of hours or over night so the ecu forgets everything and gets reset and they drive around with the cone on and the ecu adjusts automatically because its has been reset?just my thoughts and wat i have heard could be wrong

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Postby Deen » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:09 am

lets get some more info on this... i've got the cone and thought about tuning it on the dyno... now im not so sure... :|
Current: Toyota RAV4 Cruiser 2.4 lt

Ex: Focus ST225 156kw, 337nm ATW (KAR dyno)

Ex: Fiesta ST150 100kw, 152nm ATW (KAR dyno)

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Postby Stu » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:12 am

No it doesnt need to be tuned or detup the standard chip will sort it out just strap it on and drive :lol:
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Postby Deen » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:14 am

haha stu.. how did i know you were gonna say that!!
Current: Toyota RAV4 Cruiser 2.4 lt

Ex: Focus ST225 156kw, 337nm ATW (KAR dyno)

Ex: Fiesta ST150 100kw, 152nm ATW (KAR dyno)

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Postby Paddy » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:32 am

ya thats wat i thought :) but if you got spare cash lying around do the dyno tune gets your car running at optimum(provied the guy knows what he is doing) but think its better for older cars that are outa sinc a bit i think it helped my car quite a bit

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Postby Stu » Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:37 am

The problem is finding a person that actualy knows what he/she is doing on the dyno setup some just mess it up
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Postby Paddy » Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:18 am

i went to sac got 9kw from dyno tune and FF so on paper its pretty good cant tell if consuption is any better myt actually be worse.anybody know of a good place how is/are the guy/s at KAR

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Postby Stu » Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:34 am

They are very good and thats not just from what Ive heard on this site but on the VW site and speed&sound site aswell Im getting them to do my polo once Ive got the engine sorted out
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Postby Deen » Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:38 am

wonder whats the cost for just a tune up on the dyno for fuel management... etc..
Current: Toyota RAV4 Cruiser 2.4 lt

Ex: Focus ST225 156kw, 337nm ATW (KAR dyno)

Ex: Fiesta ST150 100kw, 152nm ATW (KAR dyno)

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