Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

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Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Thu Jun 15, 2017 4:04 pm

I'm new here. Couldn't find a forum for Fords in general, so I thought best spot is to try ST Owners given there are some turbo Bantams around here. :)

My kid's nanny has a old Ford Bantam 1600 (carb, F6 motor?) that needs to have CV joints done. I'll be doing the job to save her the labour costs.
I've called around for CV joints and Midas and Masterparts seem to have best pricing.
However, I'm a little confused on the outer CV joint options.

The outers seem to have different spline counts. Something like 21-23, and 22-24.
Short of having to take the thing apart first and then running around like mad on a weekend to get a set of CV joints, what is the simplest way to confirm the proper required spline count?

I haven't confirm model year with her yet.

Also, any special tools required or is Bantam (and/or Mazda Rustler) fairly straight forward? Just need to check axle nut size and get a pry bar.

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. :)

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Thu Jun 15, 2017 5:38 pm

Model year is 1993.

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:01 am

I've posted it on Mazda owners club as well since the Bantam in question (Mazda 323 based) has zero Ford parts bar for the load bed carried over from the bBntam I (Escort based) .
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:27 pm

Thanks. Appreciate that. :)

Received some info from folks on VW club too.
And then also found a GKN catalogue. It would seem the CV required is 24/22 and apparently, if this catalogue is correct, the outer diameter of the CV is 75.5mm. The other spline combo is 24/23 which looks to be for the larger CV joint having OD of 80mm.

Decided to get the bakkie in on Friday morning so at least there's still time to go find open shops if need be.

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jun 19, 2017 1:03 pm

Info from the guys at Mocsa suggest the F6 used the same CVs as the 2.0l Fe 323s which is the larger one. The problem is that the fitment of the F6 & Fe engines into the 323 BF (P3) build code was unique to SA and parts were sourced from the 626 parts bin and some from the 323 BG (which we nevver had in SA. Your bantam is based on the 323 BF. Best would be to take a sample.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Mon Jun 19, 2017 1:58 pm

Ah, ok. Thanks. I guess I'll try and pull it apart Friday and get out to the parts shop then.

I have this feeling that says something on this bakkie is going to refuse to come out. :P

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jun 19, 2017 2:16 pm

Removing the inner CV is a bit of a mission. I have watched Ernie Vermaak do it a few times. I take my vehicles to him to service the CVs every 150 000 km or when there are wheel bearing crap on them. WB on these things is also another bug bear. The problem with the F series engines in the P3 is that the engines were moved firward in the engine bay therefore the CVs don't run in a straight line as with the B3, B5 & B6 engines.This cause them to wear sooner on the F6 etc
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Mon Jun 19, 2017 6:10 pm

Yeah, I'm dreading a stuck inner CV. Actually what I'm dreading more is something broken in the gearbox. This car doesn't knock or click, it bangs those CVs. I think there's more than CVs faulty, but I'll start there.

Might have to put a slide hammer together. Saw someone had issue removing inner CV on 323 and even hooking it up to a truck didn't help. Needs shock to compress that retaining ring.

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Tue Jun 20, 2017 8:14 am

2226cc wrote:Yeah, I'm dreading a stuck inner CV. Actually what I'm dreading more is something broken in the gearbox. This car doesn't knock or click, it bangs those CVs. I think there's more than CVs faulty, but I'll start there.

Might have to put a slide hammer together. Saw someone had issue removing inner CV on 323 and even hooking it up to a truck didn't help. Needs shock to compress that retaining ring.

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Sometimes Ernie manage to just jank them out, but mostly he use a tyre lever. First think to look at is the front gearbox mount. They are known to fail specially on the bakkies carrying loads. It causes the whole drive train to sag & then they eat the left side CV. Also check that the gearbox cross member is properly fastened both at front (at the bottom end of the radiator cradle) and rear under the passenger foot well.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:54 am

Thanks for the tips. Will definitely check those points.

If a pry bar will budge them then all will be good. Hopefully nothing bad is keeping them in.

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Fri Jun 23, 2017 12:02 pm

Anyone in cape town have time to give me a hand? Can't get the driver's side inner CV out. Don't have a slide hammer either.

Have pry bars and tyre iron, but finding leverage is near impossible.

Do I need to remove the bracket that holds the extended drive shaft?

I need to go to workshop as well as the outer CV on the passenger side left the inner cage on the shaft.

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Fri Jun 23, 2017 3:17 pm

I'll have alook at mone & get back at you pronto.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Fri Jun 23, 2017 3:25 pm

It looks like that bracket has to be removed. I'm in office clothing so could crawl under to look properly. Its usually the left side that full of #$%$#@. GL
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Fri Jun 23, 2017 3:30 pm

Check PM I've send you the number of the guy on Mocsa who work on these things often he should be able to assist.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

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Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:47 pm

Yeah, was going to call him, but then spares place didn't have the RHS inner CV. So, guess what, bought a boot, repacked the bloody thing and slapped it back in. Rolls smooth-ish, but it seems the bearing in that carrier that seems to have a wobble.

The LHS was easy. I saw that I need to drain the gearbox oil before pulling it, but as I wiggled the joint it popped right out and no oil coming out.

I had to take the grinder to the outer CV joint. Rotten. Looked at the other outer as just chucked it in my car and took to the the local tyre place. They cut the other CV off and the inner cage that was stuck. R20, job done.

But CVs are not the problem now. The passenger side tie-rod is done for. Turns out that's the thing banging. Have to find one tomorrow morning. Midas didn't have. I mean, the thing moves like a centimetre in its socket. I hope it's the tie-rod and not the rack.

Brake caliper seems a little stiff on the driver's side. Strut mount torn. Fuel return hose from pump is cut and leaking. There's a nick in the passenger side brake hose.

What a death trap. Can't believe I let my kid in it.

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