Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Moderator: Other Ford Moderators

+
Posts: 5052
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:17 am
Make: Mazda
Model: 2.0 Active
Type: 2.0 Active
Year: 2010

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jun 26, 2017 8:50 am

The sliding pins on the caliper obviously require a good clean and a good dollop of rubber grease. Don't use ordinary grease as it will "eat" the rubber dust covers. This is a fairly common problem specially on higher distance vehicles. Also inspect the bottom ball joint which attach the bottom and of the knuckle to the wishbone, they are prone to wear on higher distance as well.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

-
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:32 am
Make: VW
Model: Citi
Type: 1.4
Year: 2006

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Mon Jun 26, 2017 11:08 am

Will do next weekend.

Ball joints are done for, boots are damaged but won't be doing those now. I only have next weekend and then I'm away the week after.

See wheel bearings have slight play. For later. Must also pull intermediate shaft to change carrier bearing, but will hold for now.

Bushing at end of rack is gone. Bits found in the boot, which are amazingly in good shape and seem to be original. Have to pull rack next weekend to get inner tie-rod off to fit new bushing. Old style rack where the tie rod isn't simply locked in with washer. There's no way to lift the retaining indentation as it's at the back of the rack, so that means rack out to fit a R67 part. Might just do the tie rods anyway if they're affordable.

Car holds without handbrake up, something's dragging. Probably why she complains about fuel consumption. That, and need to replace fuel hose which is leaking.

I started car in garage and only found out later while cleaning up that it left a soot mark across everything.

What a mission for 2 hands. Hopefully have a buddy coming round next weekend to help out with some stuff.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk

+
Posts: 5052
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:17 am
Make: Mazda
Model: 2.0 Active
Type: 2.0 Active
Year: 2010

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:11 pm

Bonding rear brakes could be the load equalising cylinder under the load bed or it could be one or both rear wheels auto brake adjusters inside the drum playing up.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

-
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:32 am
Make: VW
Model: Citi
Type: 1.4
Year: 2006

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:40 pm

Or perhaps sticky cable? Brake light remains on. Will inspect this weekend after getting rack done, time permitting.

+
Posts: 5052
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:17 am
Make: Mazda
Model: 2.0 Active
Type: 2.0 Active
Year: 2010

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jun 26, 2017 1:59 pm

Does it still have the bench seat with the HB lever next to the seat at the door? check the HB ratchet Also check that the cable is not restricted under the seat. I've installed Mazda 323 bucket seats and front HB cable from a 323.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

-
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:32 am
Make: VW
Model: Citi
Type: 1.4
Year: 2006

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:23 pm

Yeah, that's the one. Will have a look tonight.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk

+
Posts: 5052
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:17 am
Make: Mazda
Model: 2.0 Active
Type: 2.0 Active
Year: 2010

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:44 pm

Oil the portion of the HB cable that run in the metal part under the seat, but also check the ratchet. If the ratchet is faulty the std 323 one fits. then its scrapyard hunting since they no longer available ex agents
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

-
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:32 am
Make: VW
Model: Citi
Type: 1.4
Year: 2006

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Fri Jul 14, 2017 10:37 pm

So 2 Saturday's ago I had a friend come around and help remove the rack and fit the new bushing.
Rear handbrake would stick, but would roll freely once it banged loose, so I left it.
Tried to do front brakes, but was supplied the wrong pads and couldn't find brake discs. That, and who the hell thought it'd be a good idea to put the discs behind the hubs!??!?
Put in new fuel hose, cleaned up pump to watch leak (seems fuel is from pump, couldn't find replacement fuel pump), then buttoned everything up and car went back on the road. There's a vibration when pulling away, but that could be the intermediate shaft bearing.

But whatever, none of it matters now anyway ... bakkie was stolen in Parklands late this afternoon. Go figure. :-x

Edit: ... and there was a cop around when she was looking for her bakkie, but he says just go report it as he is busy with another case right now. Security guard for the parking says parking area is too big he can't watch everything. :P

+
Posts: 5052
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:17 am
Make: Mazda
Model: 2.0 Active
Type: 2.0 Active
Year: 2010

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:47 am

As for the brake system design, blame Mitsubishi Mazda outsourced the design of the braking system in these to them, I have an idea the whole front suspension on this 323 and the one before it was designed by them. In Japan they sourced the calipers and disks from Mitsubishi in SA the calipers were sourced from Girlock Brakes on the cars with rear disks brakes they were sourced from Mitsubishi Japan.

It being stolen, a lot of them are eventually found in Zim.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

-
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:32 am
Make: VW
Model: Citi
Type: 1.4
Year: 2006

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Mon Jul 17, 2017 10:09 pm

Total mix-n-match it seems. I did kind of like the Girling calipers, though, compared to the things I have on my VW. But then I realised I need some other tool to just spread the pads or push the piston back in.

Unfortunate it is stolen as she'll have to put up money now which isn't quite available, but at the same time maybe it's best that she gets something safer sooner. Another crap thing is that my house keys, including garage remote, where in the damn thing.

+
Posts: 5052
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:17 am
Make: Mazda
Model: 2.0 Active
Type: 2.0 Active
Year: 2010

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby MrMazda » Tue Jul 18, 2017 8:04 am

2226cc wrote:Total mix-n-match it seems. I did kind of like the Girling calipers, though, compared to the things I have on my VW. But then I realised I need some other tool to just spread the pads or push the piston back in.

Unfortunate it is stolen as she'll have to put up money now which isn't quite available, but at the same time maybe it's best that she gets something safer sooner. Another crap thing is that my house keys, including garage remote, where in the damn thing.


Not a mix-n-match at all most Japanese manufacturers sourced parts from each other. The gearboxes were build by Mazda designed by Toyota's Aisin subsidiary. Most of the OE Japanese electrical components were sourced from either Aisin, or Nippon Denso ( Toyota Group ) or Mitsubishi. Even in the modern Mazdas lots of the components are sourced from Toyota Group,Mitsubishi, Suzuki, Isuzu etc.

If manufacturers had to build all the components that goes into a vehicle themselves vehicles would cost a lot more than what they are right now. The German brands outsource a lot as well. think Bosch, ZF, Hella, etc. They sometimes even source from Japan as well.

Really sorry to hear about the vehicle being stolen and that some of your stuff was in it as well. I have learnt to always take the HT coil wire with me when I park. Its 2nd nature already.
Current: 2010 Mazda 6 Active, 2002 Bantam B3 1300, 2010 Sirion 1.3.
Ex:Mazda 323s X 5 1026 000km & 626s X 3 515 000km & B2200 D/c 4X4 345 000km & Meteor GLi 1.6i 120 000km, BMW 528i X2 44 000 km
Mazda 6 2006 Original 222 000km

-
Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:32 am
Make: VW
Model: Citi
Type: 1.4
Year: 2006

Re: Ford Bantam 1600 (pre-2000) CV joint questions

Postby 2226cc » Tue Jul 18, 2017 8:51 am

I'm aware of that. Have a friend at Delphi Automotive in Luxembourg that provided me with some prototype parts. It's also quite interesting to find out what it costs to manufacture some of these parts. What costs us thousands takes just pennies to make.

I'm just a little amazed that given the options for brakes and even those front wheel bearings, why would they go and take that one. I mean, the wheel bearing needs a shim between inner and outer race. Then again, maybe I'm too used to ancient 70s VW stuff.

But that's someone else's problem now.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk

Previous

Return to General Ford Tech Talk

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest